Each of the following pocket billiard games use the breaking box concept, which requires each player to break from opposite ends of the table, and allows each player to freely arrange their ball-sets within each box area according to their own particular strategy.
Matchbox
Overview:
-Two players break per round, from opposite ends of the table.
-Ball arrangements are by design, or to suit each player's style or strategy. Both ball arrangements placed upon the table before opening break shots.
-Cue ball is used only for breaking purposes. Eight ball is not used.
-Shots proceed in rotational order, little ball to larger numbered balls; each player to play either stripes or solids. The rotation moving back to the yellow balls again after the brown balls have taken their own turn. With each new turn, the next ball up ( the ball which was previously the 'on deck' ball, or simply the next ball in numerical order ) is used, regardless of any gaps that may be present in the order caused by the opponent's pocketing of the balls that would otherwise have been up in the order.
-Opponent balls do not need to be pocketed in numerical order.
-Called shots allow the ball that is up to shoot again.
-Safely pocketed balls stay pocketed, but turns end if a ball and pocket are not called and properly completed.
-Missed called shots = one ball penalty, any ball may be taken.
-Last ball must be called to win. If pocketed without being called, or if called ball travels into wrong pocket = outright loss of round. If last ball is missed and called = one ball penalty.
Matchbox is played with seven solid balls 1-7 and seven striped balls 9-15. Opponents break from opposite sides of the table. Stripes or solids are determined before start of play. The object of the game is to sink all of your opponent’s balls in any order while keeping at least one of your own balls on the table to win.
The Breaking Box
Before the start of play each player arranges their seven balls into their own break area, ( the area inside each player’s nine dots on each side of the table; each area extending to the back rail within each box ) The player to break first arranges their balls last, both placements in place on the table when the first player breaks. Each player is free to arrange their balls in any configuration they choose, as long as all seven balls are within the break area.
In Matchbox each player breaks into their opponent's ball arrangement, in most cases trying to sink as many of their opponent's balls as possible.
The breaking area is 23 inches wide and 34.5 inches long, ( eight-foot tables - larger on nine-foot tables 25/37.5, and smaller on seven-foot tables 19/28.5) which allows for a very wide ball arrangement. The Matchbox break area is considered to be within the center of the outside dots all the way to the back rail and no farther out than the center of the third dots on the side rails inside the side center pockets. If the box were drawn with chalk, no ball may be overhanging the line, but must be completely inside the box lines. If any part of the ball is overhanging the line it is considered out of the break area or ‘box’ when beginning break action. To be out of a box area after break action any ball in question must be completely outside the box area and no part of it overhanging the line to the inside of the box.
Game Play
Matchbox uses the cue ball only during the break stage, and after each player has taken a break shot, the cue ball is removed from the table. Breaks occur from opposite sides of the table, from behind the head-string. ( second dot) One ball must be moved out of each break area to be a legal break. If one or more of the balls moves out of the box initially and then reenters the box it does not count, but the one qualifying ball must remain outside the box to be counted. If one ball is already out of the box before second break, ( through the action of the first break ) that is fine, from which point the cue ball may be used to position same-side balls, or sink any of the balls directly, so long as the cue ball begins from behind the normal head-string/foot-string. If at least one ball does not end up all the way out of a rack area after a break it is not a legal break.
In the case of an illegal break a three ball penalty is awarded to the opposing player, any three of their choice, taken without disturbing any of the other balls; or the opponent may simply choose to rack again, depending on the result of their own set-up. In the breaking stage this penalty must be assessed after both opponents have completed their break shots, as the penalty may not be taken before the second player’s break. The player that sinks the most of their opponent’s balls on break may choose to go first or second in regular play, or in the case of a tie, the first player to break is also defaulted to begin regular play first. Any balls that are knocked in by their owner’s breaking action are counted no different than those knocked in by their opponent when considering who begins regular play first after break play is completed. Also, balls taken in penalty are counted no different than those knocked in through each player’s breaking action, which means that a player awarded a penalty usually will have 'officially' pocketed more balls and therefore will have the option to go first or second to begin regular play. If both players end up with illegal breaks, the balls will be re-racked for a do-over if either player would like to re-rack instead of taking penalty balls. If both players would like to take penalty balls, the player to break first takes the first of three balls, followed by the second player-to-break’s first of three balls, and continuing in this order until both players have removed three balls. If the cue ball ends up in a pocket after a break, it does not matter, since the cue ball is used only for breaking purposes.
In the case of only one ball ending up out of your opponent’s break area after first break, but reentering the area again after second break, the first break will still be considered an illegal break. In other words, if you happen to knock only one ball out of the other player’s rack area, but they manage to knock it back into their own break area through the action of their own break, your break will still be considered an illegal break after both breaks have been completed. The opposing player is then free to take penalty removals.
After the breaks are completed all shots must go in rotational order, ( 9-10-11-12-13-14-15 or 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 ) which means the first ball to shoot, usually the one or nine, ( yellow ball ) but often simply the lowest ball in order belonging to the first side to begin regular play, is the action ball, the action ball that will try to sink the opponent’s balls in any order. Once the first ball misses and the opposite player takes a turn, he or she must begin with the next ball in order. If a player is solids, for example, and the opponent has already pocketed the 6, 3, and 1, then their next ball to shoot is their 2 ball. On the next available turn it will be the 4 ball or the next ball in order if the 4 ball is also pocketed. After the rotation is complete, and the 7 ball or last ball in rotational order has completed its turn, the order returns to the lowest remaining ball in rotational order.
An opponent’s ball ( target ball ) must be contacted first on each shot. If contact with an opponent ball is not made before hitting a ball of your own or missing contact with any ball at all, the opponent is allowed to take a penalty ball: any ball of their choice off the table. This penalty removal must take place before the non-guilty player’s next turn. This penalty removal can be any ball, not only the ball which is involved in the penalty. It can also be a same-side ball if the ball is in the way of a possible run attempt. A same-side ball, however, may not be removed before a turn except in penalty situations.
Called Shots, Safe Shots, and Called Scratches
The action ball is always the next ball in order. But to continue a run in Counter Break, a player must call the pocket and the ball to be pocketed in order to continue for another turn. ( for the same action ball to shoot again ) However, if a player calls the shot, ( ball and pocket need only be mentioned ) and misses, the opponent may take a penalty ball, any ball of his or her choice off the table before they begin their own turn. In other words, the penalty for missing a called shot is a one ball penalty - any ball may be taken.
A safe shot may be taken without calling a shot, or saying anything, as it will be assumed to be a safe shot if the player does not call a ball and pocket, from which point it is legal to sink an opponent’s ball without having the opponent take a penalty against you. However, in safe mode there is not an option to shoot again, and unless the ball and pocket are called a player may not go twice. At no point may a player pass after making a called shot. If the called shot is made the player must go again - i.e. at least make contact with an opponent ball to avoid a penalty removal.
If a player calls the pocket and ball but also pockets their action ball ( scratches ) they may not go again. But since they fulfilled their obligation to pocket the ball, there is no penalty for scratching the action ball.
However, a third option is available in Matchbox, which is called ‘calling a scratch.’ To call a scratch three things must be included: ball, pocket, and ‘off of’ ball. For example, if the 4 ball is up, without a good shot, but the 13 ball is positioned in a way to allow the 4 to be pocketed off of the 13, a ‘Scratch’ can be called, allowing the 4 to be pocketed off the 13, which allows for the 5, or 6, or whichever ball is next in order to take a shot from its more advantageous position. In this way the ‘Scratch ’ option allows continuation of a turn from a different action ball. In most cases the scratch option is useful for sacrificing the action ball when following a target ball into its pocket, which, though it is a sacrifice, allows the next ball in rotation a turn from its own position on the table.
Final Ball
The final ball to be pocketed ( the last remaining ball on the table for either player ) in Matchbox must be called to be pocketed.
As an example, if the stripes player has the solid player down to one remaining ball, the 3 ball, and the stripes player has a 15, 12, and 9, remaining on the table, the stripes player cannot safe the 3 ball into any pocket. ( slop the 3 into any pocket ) Not calling the ball and the pocket on the last ball and sinking the ball will result in an outright loss. However, since the stripes player has three balls remaining on the table, he or she may have a few chances to call the last shot and miss without losing the game by penalty, ( although each called miss on the 3 will cost a ball in penalty to be removed ) - which is better than losing the game outright for not calling the final ball and still pocketing it.
If there are only two balls remaining on the table, each must call the pocket to win, but must not sink the other without calling the pocket, which results in a loss, keeping in mind that the opponent ball must be contacted each time to avoid the one ball penalty for not hitting a target ball. ( the game losing ball in case of the last ball )
The only time a final ball may be pocketed without calling the pocket is when more than one ball is pocketed at once. So if there are two balls remaining, and the first ball is not called but goes in, and the second ball is also pocketed in the same shot, it will be considered a game winning safe shot.
In the case of calling a scratch on the final shot, a player, however rare the situation may appear, may call a scratch on the final ball, hoping for both balls to go in. With more than one remaining ball, assuming the opponent has only one remaining ball, a called scratch may allow the second ball a better shot after such a sacrifice; but with only two balls remaining, a called scratch is only useful for forcing a draw, assuming the ball that is scratched ‘off of’ also goes in. Basically a called scratch with only two remaining balls is not necessary, because once a ball is pocketed, so long as the ball and pocket are called when not calling a scratch, the rule has been satisfied, and if the action ball happens to follow into or find another pocket, it is simply a draw. In other words, scratches are only useful to call if there is a remaining ball to inherit the shot after the scratch occurs.
Penalties
-During penalty removals the non-guilty player may remove either one opponent ball or one of their own balls depending on their setup; a player may not remove one of their own balls by hand unless the removal is in response to a penalty. If a player has a better setup without removing a penalty ball they may choose not to take the penalty removal.
-Missing an opponent ball or hitting a non-opponent ball first during regular play: = One ball penalty, any ball may be chosen, assessed before the beginning of the next turn. If a ball begins already touching an opponent ball, the touching ball may be either played or the turn may be passed back to the other player without penalty.
-Missing a called shot, or missing a called scratch: = One ball penalty, any ball may be chosen, assessed before the beginning of next turn.
-Double penalties are not called for missing contact with an opponent ball first while also missing a called shot. In the case of both happening in one play, the normal one ball penalty is assessed and not a two ball penalty.
Break Penalties: Not knocking one opponent ball out of their break area ( determined by final position of the ball, which must be outside the break area ) is a three ball penalty, any three of the opposing player’s choice, assessed after each break ( both breaks ) have been completed. If the non-guilty player wishes he or she may choose to re-rack and start the game over again - based on his or her set-up. A ball is considered outside the break area if all of it is outside the box area, and no part of it is overhanging the line. Legal or illegal breaks are always determined after both players have finished their break shots, and balls that are out of an area initially but return to the same break area after second break cannot be counted to satisfy the one ball out rule.
-Combination shots: As long as one ball to be pocketed is called along with the pocket ( point to exact pocket ) and as long as an opponent target ball is struck first, combos do not need to be called. In the case of hitting a non-opponent ball first, and combo-ing an opponent ball into a pocket, a one ball penalty is assessed before the opposing player takes his or her turn, but the pocketed ball is not returned to the table. Such a play is considered a sacrifice, and the ball that is illegally pocketed cannot be put back on the table. If the ball pocketed by an illegal combination is the last ball, the game is over, so long as the ball and pocket are called first; and the guilty player, having more than one ball on the table still wins.
-Final ball penalties resulting in the final ball being pocketed will amount to a loss for the guilty player.
-Under-cut jumps and rebound jumps are legal so long as one fluid stroke is apparent and a double cue is also not apparent in the action of the jump play.
General Penalties
-Double-cues: or cuing the action ball twice in one play: One ball penalty. Throw shots are Ok, but as with close quarter shots, the ball being struck with the cue must not appear pushed, double struck, or to have an unnatural follow to it; if any of these warning signs are evident, a double-cue should be called, resulting in a one ball penalty.
-Interference: Moving, nudging, or displacing balls by any means is not acceptable. One ball penalty for guilty player. If the interference occurs before the shot, the guilty player is assessed the penalty first, and then allowed to take the shot. If their action ball at the time is removed out from under them by the opposing player ( if he or she wants another ball to take a shot from its likely less advantageous position ) when assessing the interference penalty, they must move to their next ball in normal rotation. If balls are severely disturbed by a hand, elbow, cue, extension, etc, the non-guilty player may take the result of the movement before assessing the one ball penalty, or put the balls back as closely as possible to where they were originally and then assess the one ball penalty.
-If a ball that is up in rotation is already touching an opponent ball, the player that is up may choose to give the other player their next turn and do nothing; in the case of the final balls, the opponent ball must be visibly moved to be considered a legal contact.
-Off the table balls: The player that strikes the shot leading to an off -the-table ball or more, is assessed a one ball penalty. ( any ball may be taken ) If one of his or her own balls leaves the table they will not be returned, but there will still be an additional one ball penalty ( involving the balls remaining on the table ) assessed after the balls stop rolling. If only the opposing player’s ball or balls leave the table, each one that leaves the table may be placed back anywhere they want them on the table, so long as they are not touching another ball, and after they are returned, a one ball penalty is assessed normally to the guilty player. When off the table balls occur during the breaking stages, their resultant penalties are taken after both players have completed their breaks.
Miss-cues: If a player casually nudges their action ball while just “warming-up,” that is their shot, and the result is final.
-Three illegal breaks in a row. Such a rare case will lose the game for the guilty player.
Game Format
The advantage of going first or second on the break is minimal either way, although a slight advantage goes to the player to begin regular play first which is usually the first player to break, assuming an equal amount of balls is knocked down by each side. Ideally a series such as two out of three games should be played, allowing both players first break and each player opposite ends of the table at least once. In a series match, the number of balls remaining on the table at the end of each game should be counted, with the most remaining after two games and the tie having the choice of table ends and breaking first or second for the tie breaking game.
Matchbox Game Strategy
When designing a break arrangement spreading the balls as far apart as possible throughout the box is often a useful design. Arranging balls tightly grouped is also useful in many situations. The second approach, however, can lead to unwanted trapping of balls that will need to make contact with opposing balls to avoid penalties. Keeping each of the balls out of a direct scoring line is also useful, since an opponent will often try to sink a ball directly without trying to severely disturb your arrangement.
A good break may be one that blasts the arrangement as hard as possible from a good angle behind the baulk line, to enable as much rebounding and ball pocketing potential as possible; or a good break may be one that softly knocks one out, while stranding the lead ball, or otherwise diminishing offensive ability, since another hard safe-shot sent into a tight group later on may knock one of the group down or open them up for a run farther on in the round. Often it is a good idea to pocket a ball directly and secure a one ball advantage, especially so if your opponent does not knock any of your own down in his or her own break. In any case a good break is one that allows for a good multiple ball run at some point before too very far along in the game. Since there is no requirement as to which side of balls must be struck first with the cue ball during break stages, often a seeding play is good to consider, especially when breaking second. A seed play sends a same-side ball directly off the cue ball and into the opposite ball arrangement, positioning it to a close proximity to its opponent balls, which make running the ball through the arrangement easier from its more advantageous position, so long, that is, as it does not trap itself into difficult combination attempts. If attempted from first break, the cue ball should also combo another of the set out of the home box to avoid the seed ball simply being returned by the opponent, thus forcing the seeding player into an illegal break.
As play proceeds Matchbox is not too much different than most pocket billiard games. The important thing is to play within one’s limits, and avoid calling shots which are too difficult to make consistently, which lead to penalty balls being removed. Good safe-shots should knock a ball down if possible, and get the action ball back out of the way of an easy pocket for the other player, keeping in mind, the next ball to take a turn is already in place and known beforehand by both players.
Patience is the best bet when each player has only one ball remaining. Calling the shot and missing will lose the game for you, as will leaving the opponent a good shot. It is best to keep lightly tapping the opposing ball safely until calling a shot feels right, even if the game seems to take a very long time. The loser will often be the one to lose patience first.
*Box Match
The game of Box Match is played exactly the same way as Matchbox, with the exception of break play. In Box Match each player breaks their own balls to set up their own game play alignment. All other break and game play rules are the same as Matchbox rules. If a player happens to knock down one or more of their own balls while breaking, balls are not returned, and the opposite player will have choice to begin regular play first or second if they have more balls remaining on the table after break play.
When playing Box Match, keep in mind that pocketing on break will be somewhat rare when compared to Matchbox. Each opponent will have easy access to a pocket if balls are spread and not grouped, since each will break from the side which houses their opponent's box arrangement.
If an opponent can manage to sink a ball that strays close to a pocket or good scoring line, they can follow or spin the cue off the ball in question, pocketing the opponent ball and still moving one of their own out of their arrangement with the cue ball, which is followed or spun off a rail, or drawn off a rail, or otherwise follows naturally into their arrangement, in the hope that the cue ball will carry enough speed or precision to satisfy their own one ball out requirement. First play in Box Match is often worth attempting through such pocket combos, however risky.
Counterpoint
Overview:
-Players break from opposite ends of the table. Two breaks per round. Both ball sets on the table to begin each round or half.
-Players 'make their own breaks.' - arrange their own balls in one opening shot which distributes them. Balls are also freely arranged in the box area before each break shot according to each player's style or strategy.
-Cue ball is the scoring ball.
*It is preferable to for each player to use balls of all the same color. But for most, it is not easy to find five ball sets to use unless playing in a pool hall or tournament situation, so the alternative is to play stripes vs. solids, which is okay enough but lacks the presentation appeal of same color balls.
-Five balls are typically used by each side, but any number from one to seven may be used by each side, according to handicap or other match specific arrangements made beforehand.
-Home corner pockets = 1 point. Side pockets = 2 points. Opponent corner pockets = 3 points.
The opposite is true for the opposing player.
- 24 shot maximum per round. Each shot from either player deducting one count from the total.
Sometimes played with different round maximums, but usually 24.
-Except in opening breaks, cue ball is never cued directly; but is played off of team balls.
-Any team ball may be selected to take a turn play when its side is up for a turn.
-Up to three passes may be utilized during each turn, and a final scoring attempt or position play, allowing that a single turn by one player may deduct up to four counts from 24 shot counter. Passes consist of moving the cue ball by shot contact from one same team ball to another without contacting an opponent ball before or after the completed pass. Balls passed to do not have to take the following pass, position, or scoring attempt, but any team ball may be cued when its team is up for a turn or continuation of a turn.
-Team balls cued do not have to make contact with any other ball, and are not penalized for contacting any other ball, unless an opposing team ball is pocketed directly, or without first contacting the cue ball.
-Shots do not have to be called in any case. Each play may consist of a position play, scoring attempt, or passing attempt, or any combination of the three, but do not have to be called.
-Scoring returns are returned by the scorer, any place upon the table, allowing that the ball is in open space, or 2 1/4 inches ( one ball distance ) from any other ball or rail. The eight ball is often used as a measuring ball, and often kept to the side for measuring purposes. After re-spotting the cue ball, the opponent which did not score the cue ball in the previous play is then up for his or her turn.
-Highest point total after two 24 shot halves wins the match.
General
*Live Counterpoint and Set Counterpoint are played exactly the same, with the exception of the cue ball return after the break stages, the rules both of which included in the following.
Counterpoint is played with five solid balls playing one way and five stripe balls playing the other. The cue ball is the scoring ball. ( Target ball to be pocketed by both players ) To begin play each player places their five balls into the breaking area; ( The breaking area is in the same position and of the same dimensions as the breaking box used in Matchbox* ) the first player to break places his or her balls into their box in any arrangement they choose; the second player to break places their balls second; the first player then breaks their own arrangement of balls, followed by the second player’s break upon their own ball arrangement.
In Counterpoint each pair of pockets has a different scoring point value. Home corner pockets are 1 point, side pockets are 2 points for each player, and opposite corner pockets ( opponent side ) are worth 3 points for pocketing the target cue ball. If, for example, Player A racks their balls on the north side of the table, Player A’s 3 point pockets are on the south side of the table and visa versa for Player B.
Each round consists of a 24 play maximum, counted as play proceeds. ( The 24 shot maximum includes both player’s turns, one shot deducted from the 24 total each time a player cues a ball - ‘takes a turn’ )
Normally two halves are played, allowing each player an opportunity to break first and second.
In Counterpoint each player, after selecting stripes or solids places their own five balls ( any five stripes or solids of their choice ) into their breaking area. The breaking area is identical to the position and dimensions used in Matchbox.*
Break Play
Counterpoint breaks are generally soft breaks that distribute the balls without pocketing any of them. If any are pocketed the player will be at a disadvantage, having less than five balls remaining for the rest of the round. Each player breaks from behind the baulk line ( second dot ) with the scoring cue ball. For the break to be legal one ball must be moved all the way out of the break area. If a ball or more moves out of the break area initially and reenters the same area it cannot be counted as the one ball out of the box counted to satisfy the rule. If this condition is not met, ( at least one ball out of the box ) a five point penalty is deducted and each player’s balls are re-racked. If the non-guilty player chooses he or she may take the result of the break and continue without a five point penalty. If the illegal break occurs on first break the second player to break must still take a break shot of their own and move one of their balls out before they can take the five point penalty; or if they choose they may take the result of both breaks and continue normally. If both breaks are illegal, the balls will be re-racked if either player would like to re-rack; or if both players would like to play on, it must be agreed upon by both players.
Since the scoring ball is also used to break both opposing ball-sets, it is possible to score on the break. If the cue ball is pocketed into a home corner pocket while breaking it is worth 1 point, 2 points for ending up in a side pocket, and 3 points for ending up in an opponent corner pocket. However, if at least one ball is not moved out of the home break area, break points will not count and the illegal break penalty will be assessed. It is OK for a first break ball or more to travel across the table and disrupt the alignment of the balls in the second rack area. However, if a first break ball knocks one of the opponent balls out of the second box it satisfies the second player’s one-ball-out requirement, which allows the second player a free shot at a 3 point pocket with the cue ball if the second player chooses. For there is not requirement to contact any ball on break if one of the balls is already out of the box before beginning a break shot when breaking second. Direct scoring attempts in such cases must travel halfway across the table, meaning ( 2 point pockets ) should be an easy direct score, ( may be pocketed directly into side pockets ) but to bank back for a 3 point break point attempt, it will be more tricky, considering the amount of traffic that will be present. The important thing to remember is that break scoring does not count unless the cue ball travels at least as far as the side pockets from the normal head string position.
A player ( when breaking to a box with one ball already out, may also pocket an opponent ball directly off the cue ball, ( breaking ball ) even if the target ball is on the same side of the head-string line from where the cue ball will be cued. If the cue ball follows a ball into a pocket on the same side of the head string from where a player is breaking the pocketing of the cue will not count for scoring purposes; however, if a player pockets the cue ball in this way they will still have privilege to set the ball into play to begin regular play. Whether to eliminate an opponent ball or go for points in this situation is a matter of strategy.
In a situation where one of the players is penalized for an illegal break while the other has scored points on break, the points will not be counted if the five point penalty is assessed and the balls are re-racked.
The one ball out requirement is determined after both players have completed their breaks, which means that if a ball is knocked out of its rack area on first break but reenters the same area after second break, it cannot be counted to satisfy the one ball out rule.
*Whichever player scores the highest if one or both players pocket the cue ball on break, returns the cue ball to the table ( Any place on the playing surface, so long as the cue ball is in open space; 2 1/4 inches, (one ball distance) from any other ball or rail) and the low scorer takes the first shot in regular play. If both players have a tie score after both pocketing the cue ball on break, the cue is returned exactly to the center of the table ( The center measured exactly in the middle of the side pockets. ) and whoever has a ball closer to the center return begins regular play first. ( *See Set Counterpoint.) If no break points are scored the cue ball on the second break is a ‘live ball,’ meaning that the player with the closest ball to the cue ball goes first ( Usually the second to break will have a ball closer ) If opposing balls appear to be the same distance from the cue ball, a tape measure should be used to verify the matter. If they still seem too close to call, the next closest balls by proximity should be determined. In the event of a penalty occurring on one of the breaks, if the non-guilty player would like to re-rack and take the five point penalty, any points scored by the non-guilty player during his or her break will not count and the balls will be re-racked.
Special note: if player A knocks one ball out of his or her break area, but player B returns that ball into the same break area through the action of their own break, player A will be guilty of an illegal break after both breaks are completed; so long, that is, as all seven balls remain in player A’s break area and six or less remain in player B’s break area. Though tricky, such attempts to return single balls back into their home area while also moving one ball out of the opposite area will not be unheard of. For this reason player B in the above example must be legal on their own end by knocking one of their own balls out to satisfy the one out rule; if not, player B will be guilty of an illegal break if player A is legal before player B begins their own break. Therefore the only way player B can force an illegal break upon player A is if player B satisfies the one out rule on their own side while also returning all balls back into player A’s break area.
Passes
Passes are shots that move the cue ball between two striped balls or two solid balls without the cue ball contacting an opposing team ball, either before or after the pass. Successful passes( solid - cue ball - solid, or stripe - cue ball - stripe ) keep a turn alive. Three passes are allowed in one turn, followed by a final shot or position play. The 24 shot counter in the case of three passes and a final shot or position play would deduct 4 shots from the 24 shot counter. This concept is essential to understand. Three passes in a row are allowed, but possession cannot be maintained after the third pass, and a player must then attempt a shot or play position. After four plays in any case possession shifts back to the opposing player.
Passes align the scoring ball for a good shot at a pocket, and they help control possession if a player would like to run down the 24 shot counter, thus denying their opponent as many total shots. Passing does not mean the cue ball is passed from one action ball to a subsequent action ball, because in Counterpoint any team ball can be the action ball at any time. In Counterpoint it is essential to work passing combinations to help control the game and work through difficult defensive alignments. Keep in mind that a ball cannot pass to itself through a rebound, and must pass to another or more team balls to keep a play alive. If the cue ball completes more than one same-side pass in one play it is still considered the same: a completed pass; just as long as an opponent ball does not contact the cue ball at any point during the play, in which case it is considered a possession change.
Sacrifice passes are also allowed, in which a ball that completes a pass is pocketed. In certain situations point possibilities may look better than keeping one of the pass balls on the table if it is blocking a pocket or otherwise completes a pass before pocketing itself. Either way it is considered a completed pass and the player completing the pass continues on normally, so long as an opponent ball is not also contacted by the cue ball, which is a possession change.
Shot Classifications
Shots can be classified as either a Shot, Pass, or a Position Play. Shots are those that try to pocket the cue ball ( scoring ball ) for a score. Passes move the cue ball from one like ball to another without the cue ball touching an opponent ball before or after the pass - Passes keep a turn ‘alive.’ Position plays are those that are played for position/ ball alignment, or those that attempt to move opponent balls out of the way, or sink them through cue ball combos. Many shots will have a quality of each of these; or in other words, may have an option quality, meaning: “If the cue ball doesn’t go in for a score, it may complete a pass on the way, or pocket a defending ball,” .etc, etc, etc… The key is to play the odds to your best ability; especially if your opponent is a better shot maker than you are.
Shot Rules & Shot Penalties
In Counterpoint there is no requirement for the action ball, ( ball being cued ) to make contact with any other ball; which means, many position plays simply nudge the ball being played to a better defensive or offensive position. A position play may also strike an opponent ball first, and to anywhere on the table so long as the opponent ball is not pocketed. If an opponent ball is pocketed after the action ball contacts an opponent ball before contacting the cue ball, through penalty the opponent ball which is pocketed is allowed to take the exact place of any of the guilty player’s balls on the table - ( be swapped ). This penalty, ( the guilty player now minus a ball through a penalty swap ) must be carried out before the next turn takes place. If an action ball first contacts an opponent ball, and the action ball then contacts the cue ball, which goes on in the same play to complete a pass between same-side balls, the pass is legal. If the opponent ball is pocketed in the same situation, a penalty replacement will take place and possession will change, the swap occurring before the opposing player’s turn commences. However, if the cue ball is contacted first and the cue ball goes on to pocket an opponent ball in the same play, it is a legal play and the opponent ball is not returned to the table. ( No penalty ) Likewise, if an action ball contacts the cue ball first and the action ball then goes on to pocket an opponent ball, it is also a legal pocketing of that opponent ball. Basically, so long as the action ball hits the cue ball ( scoring ball ) first, any ball that is pocketed after this initial cue ball contact stays pocketed. Also, any time a player pockets one of his or her own balls through their own cueing action, the pocketed balls cannot be returned to the table.
If a general penalty takes place during any play they are assessed the in the same way general penalties are assessed in Matchbox, the penalty ball which is removed may be any ball, and the result of the ball movement may be taken, or the balls may be put back where they were minus the penalized ball.
Scoring
Pocketing the cue ball ( Scoring ball ) in the home corner pockets = 1 point. Side pockets are always 2 points for both players. The opponent’s corner pockets are worth 3 points.
Whichever player initiates table action resulting in the cue ball going into any pocket, ( shoots and scores ) gets the points assigned to that pocket. Meaning, even if an opponent’s ball is contacted first by the action ball taking the turn, then rolls into the cue ball and knocks the cue ball ( scoring ball ) into a pocket, the point still goes to the initiator of the scoring shot.
The action ball may follow the scoring ball into a pocket: - the point or points still count. In the case of combo-ing the scoring ball off of an opponent ball ( the opponent ball contacted first ) when both the opponent ball and scoring ball are pocketed: - there will be a penalty swap ( pocketed ball put in place of any opponent ball on the table ) for knocking in an opponent ball. However, the point or points still count despite the penalty, and the initiator of the shot will return the ball to the table after the penalty swap is completed. Basically, it is legal to combo the scoring ball into a pocket for a score when the scoring ball is blocked in some way by an opposing ball.
If a pass is completed before the scoring ball is pocketed ( in one shot ) the pass cannot carry over. In other words, passing possession ends when the scoring ball is scored, which always results in a possession change.
Scoring Returns
After the scoring cue ball is pocketed, the scoring player returns the ball to the table any place they choose, so long as it is in open space; one ball-distance from any rail or other ball. ( about 2 1/4 inches ) The non-scoring player is then up to take a shot, pass, or play position. A ball not being used should serve as a measuring tool, to assure the cue ball is not any closer than one ball distance from any other ball. If using a clock, the cue ball should be in position on the table when the clock expires, and if the cue ball is a questionable distance, a measuring ball should be able to pass between the cue ball and the rail, or between balls without touching. If not, the player to return the cue ball illegally should be assessed an interference penalty, in which case the one ball penalty will be taken and the guilty player will be given another chance to return the cue ball legally before the opposing player takes his or her turn.
All Out Rule
If at any point a player loses all of his or her balls before the 24 shot counter is played through, the All Out Rule is imposed on the other player. Since all scoring will be one-sided from that point, the non-scorer is allowed to place the scoring returns. Each shot remaining after only one team of balls remains on the table belongs to that team, and the opposite team may no longer take turns, because they don’t have balls to take them with, and for this reason may not deduct their due turns from the 24 counter. If a player does pocket or has all of his or her balls pocketed for them, their only hope is to place the cue ball in a difficult position each time the opponent scores. For the team remaining on the table, it will become a game of scoring as many points as possible in successive shots, until the 24 counter is exhausted.
*Set Counterpoint
Set Counterpoint is an alternative to Live Counterpoint in that the cue ball is always returned to the center dot of the table ( exactly between the side pockets ) after each break round. The team of balls with a ball closest to the center dot goes first in regular play, unlike Live Counterpoint, which plays the cue ball wherever it ends up after second break. Also, in Set Counterpoint the cue ball is returned to the center dot only if scoring break shots are equal, or if there is no scoring from either side on break; otherwise the high scorer on from the breakstage will set the cue ball just as in Live Counterpoint. If a ball is so close to the center dot, or on the center dot, not allowing the cue ball to be retuned there, the ball on the dot is allowed to be moved anywhere on the table; but if it gives up its proximity position to another ball which becomes closer after the free placement, the other team of balls takes first shot. If two balls are crowding the center dot ( not allowing the cue ball to be placed there ) they are each given a free placement, allowing the cue ball to be set on the center dot, and the team with the ball closest to the center dot initially then must take the first shot regardless of where each ball is freely placed; the initial, closest ball, however, must be placed before the next closest ball is freely placed, neither of the free placed balls touching any other ball.
Game Strategy
While breaking it is important to consider at least three styles of breaking action. A defensive break is one that spreads the balls to cover the home 3 point pockets. If the opponent has too many lines into these 3 point pockets the score may get out of hand if nothing is done to protect them. If these pockets are covered well initially it saves the trouble of worrying about them early in the game.
A scoring break is one that attempts to pocket the scoring/breaking cue ball directly off the box arrangement. Usually the corner pockets nearest the box are targeted for a 1 point score; a more advanced target might be an opposite 3 point corner pocket. Scoring break attempts will be more common when a player is breaking first. Remember, that if a player outscores another during the break stage they choose where to put the scoring ball to begin regular play, which even though this means they will not take first turn in regular play, it is often an advantage to return the scoring ball to the table, which complicates the opponent’s opening play.
Offensive breaks are those which attempt to send one or more balls down the table to disrupt an opponent’s box, which more often than not keeps the person breaking second from properly distributing their balls as they would have liked. Offensive breaks also send one or more balls down to possibly secure first play, which can often amount to an easy 3 point shot attempt. Remember, if neither player scores on break the team with a ball closest by proximity to the cue ball ( scoring ball ) after the second break goes first in regular play. Having a ball or two on the other side of the table also provides passing lanes down the table.
Pocketing your own balls on break is not a good thing. Keeping all five increases your odds of winning the round. For this reason too much speed on break is dangerous.
A somewhat more advanced break style, called a 'pocket and one,' or 'zone play,' among other things, pocket a corner ball on the same side of the headstring and spins the cue ball off the rail into their own ball arrangement on the other side of the table. So long as the one out rule is satisfied, such attempts are perfectly legal. The pocketed ball may be close to the home arrangement, near a side pocket also, or anywhere that allows the cue ball to combo itself into the home arrangement to satisfy the one out rule. If such a play opens up an entire side of the table to work, and also forces the opponent to play a ball less from the beginning, a variety of herding techniques can further hamper defensive ability as play proceeds.
As for box designs, the possibilities are near endless, but a good break should do at least one of the three or four styles some credit; but if a break design can do more than one thing well it is often worth practicing until some consistency starts to emerge.
Apart from the importance of break design and execution, being able to visualize passes which lead to scoring opportunities is key in Counterpoint. Completing passes is tricky enough, but using them to your advantage is often as much a creative exercise as it is a technical one. Keep in mind that the balls completing passes are often not the ones that will take the shot in the end, and knowing whether or not to attempt another pass or try a sub-par shot attempt is often the difference in the game. When an opponent has five balls on the table it is not easy to pass in most cases, so it is also wise to play position once the cue ball is passed out of your opponents ideal scoring lanes. A player with an ultra soft touch that loves to play position, and those with good herding and rail pinning skills are beautiful to watch, as they can often eliminate balls simply by pinning them to a rail, allowing that the ball to the inside will still be useful and the pinned ball will not. Such players make another think twice before pocketing for one point scores, will force position plays that free the railed balls, or often force a wild shot through anger, in which case the player who loses his or her temper first can only hope for the best after the balls stop rolling and new positions are re-established, usually to the advantage of the player who forces such outbursts.
Good pocket defense is key. A pocket defender too close to a pocket may get comboed in off the cue ball. ( a legal ball eliminating pocket ) Also, in many cases the cue ball will simply follow the defending ball into the pocket for a score if it is very closely blocking the pocket. Too far from the pocket and more scoring angles open up to the opponent.
When returning the cue ball to the table after a score try not to play chicken with an opponent too often. Use other balls to block angles, or use the rail to force kick shots, or kick passes. Often the best choice is to place the cue ball, when returning it to the table, as close as possible to one of your balls, ( no closer than one ball distance, according to the rule ) which makes it very difficult for an opponent to separate the balls safely.
Game Format
Each player should be allowed an opportunity to break first and last to keep the game fair. This means at least two equal halves should be played, each half consisting of twenty-four shots. If these halves are shortened, a greater emphasis is placed on breaking ability which dominates early strategy; if the halves are lengthened a greater emphasis is placed on ball conservation. ( avoiding cue ball combos that sink your balls, or carelessly sinking them through your own actions, both of which being fairly common ) Also, the longer these halves or quarters are lengthened, the more a good shot maker will tend to dominate over a lesser shot maker in the end. The goal of any match should be to combine good breaking strategy, creative passing, scoring returns, and position plays, into a workable package that is agreeable to each player.
In the event of a tie at the end of both halves or four quarters, etc,.. a forced middle-return ( placing the cue ball directly at the center of the table, as in Set Counterpoint* ) after the break round makes a single deciding round more fair for each player. As to who goes first in the overtime round a simple coin flip or lag play may be the best method so long as both players agree.
Cascade
Overview:
-Players break from opposite ends of the table. Two break plays per round. Both ball arrangements in place upon table to begin each round.
-Players 'make their own breaks,' - arrange their seven stripes or seven solids in their own break area according to their preference, and distribute their balls with a single break or distributing shot.
-The cue ball is the scoring ball to be knocked in or 'scored,' by the action of either stripe or solid-side balls for scoring purposes. Except in opening break plays, the cue ball is never cued directly.
-Shots proceed in color rotational order. The closest color up in rotation is determined by proximity to the cue ball. For example, if the 1 is closer to the cue ball than the 9, the 1 takes the lead shot, and the 9 takes the next shot, moving on to the closest blue ball, etc, etc, ..
-Home corner pockets = 1 point. Side pockets = 2 points for each player. Opponent corner pockets = 3 points. The opposite is true for the opposing player.
-After being scored, the cue ball is returned to the table by the scorer. Placed anywhere inside a normal table rack, so long as the center dot, ( made with a chalked cue tip, and directly between the side pockets in the center of the table ) is visible inside the rack when placed on the table and the cueball is inside the rack. The rack and the cue ball inside the rack are not allowed to be touching another ball. The next ball by color rotation and proximity takes the shot to follow. A tape measure, or some form of measuring tool is very important to have on hand when playing Cascade.
-The cue ball must be contacted first by the action ball up for each shot, or the ball that took the shot will be removed through penalty.
-Sacrifice plays are allowed. Meaning, if an opponent ball is knocked in directly by the action ball being played, both balls will be taken out of play, the action ball through penalty, and the pocketed ball remaining in the pocket.
-Three rotations - yellow through brown x 3 are played, to constitute a round of play. Usually two halves are played. Sometimes more than three rotations per half, but generally three is the best number, because sacrifices will be common, and after three rotations the balls remaining to be played will often be limited.
-Highest point total after two halves wins match.
General
Cascade is played with 7 solid balls playing in one direction and 7 stripe balls playing the other direction. The cue ball is the scoring ball. ( Target ball to be pocketed by both players ) To begin play each player places seven balls into the breaking box; ( The breaking box is in the same position and of the same dimensions as the breaking box used in Matchbox* ) the first player to break places his or her balls into their box in any arrangement they choose; the second player to break places their balls second; the first player then breaks their own arrangement of balls, followed by the second player’s break upon their own ball arrangement.
In Cascade each pair of pockets has a different scoring point value. Home corner pockets are 1 point, side pockets are 2 points for each player, and opposite corner pockets ( opponent side ) are worth 3 points for pocketing the target cue ball. If, for example, Player A racks their balls on the north side of the table, Player A’s 3 point pockets are on the south side of the table and visa versa for Player B.
Normally two halves are played, allowing each player an opportunity to break first and second.
In Cascade each player, after selecting stripes or solids places their own seven balls ( any seven stripes or solids of their choice ) into their breaking area. The breaking area is identical to the position and dimensions used in Matchbox.*
Break play
Cascade breaks are generally soft breaks that distribute the balls without pocketing any of them, in which case a player will be at a disadvantage, having less than seven balls remaining for the rest of the round. Each player breaks form behind the head-string/foot-string ( second dot ) with the scoring cue ball. For the break to be legal one ball or more must be moved all the way out of the box. If a ball or more moves out of the box initially and reenters the box, the ball cannot be counted as the one ball counted to satisfy the rule. If this condition is not met, ( one ball out of the box ) a five point penalty is deducted and each player’s balls are re-racked. If the non-guilty player chooses he or she may take the result of the breaks and continue without a five point penalty. If the illegal break occurs on first break the second player to break must still break their own ball out of the break area before declaring the penalty. If both breaks are illegal, balls will be re-racked for a do over unless both players decide to play on without a ‘do over.’
Since the scoring ball is also used to break both opposing ball-sets, it is possible to score on the break. If the cue ball is pocketed into a home corner pocket while breaking it is worth 1 point, 2 points for ending up in a side pocket, and 3 points for ending up in an opponent corner pocket. However, if one ball is not moved out of the box on break, break points will not count and the illegal break penalty will be assessed. It is OK for a first break ball or more to travel across the table and disrupt the alignment of the balls in the second box-rack. However, if a first break ball knocks a ball out of the second box it satisfies the second player’s one-ball-out requirement, which allows the second player a free shot at a 3 point pocket with the cue ball if the second player chooses. For there is not requirement to contact any ball on break if one ball is already out of the box before beginning a break shot when breaking second. Direct scoring attempts in such cases must travel at least halfway across the table, meaning , the side pockets ( 2 point pockets ) are an easy score under such circumstances, ( May be pocketed directly into side pockets ) but to bank back for a 3 point break point attempt, it will be more tricky, considering the amount of traffic that will be present.
A player ( when breaking to a box with a ball already out, may also pocket an opponent ball directly off the cue ball, ( breaking ball ) even if the target ball is on the same side of the head-string from where the cue ball will be cued. Whether to eliminate an opponent ball or go for points in this situation is a matter of strategy. For break points to count, however, the cue ball must travel at least as far as the side pockets,. In the case of the cue ball following an opponent ball into a pocket behind the head string ( or simply going there without hitting another ball, that player will have the privilege of setting the table to begin regular play, much the same as in Counterpoint. So long as the other break rules have been satisfied this sort of pocketing is legal during the break stage.
Special note: if player A knocks one ball out of his or her break area, but player B returns that ball into the same break area through the action of their own break, player A will be guilty osf an illegal break after both breaks are completed; so long, that is, as all seven balls remain in player A’s break area and six or less remain in player B’s break area. Though tricky, such attempts to return single balls back into their home area while also moving one ball out of the opposite area will not be unheard of. For this reason player B in the above example must be legal on their own end by knocking one of their own balls out to satisfy the one out rule; if not, player B will be guilty of an illegal break if player A is legal before player B begins their own break. Therefore the only way player B can force an illegal break upon player A is if player B satisfies the one out rule on their own side while also returning all balls back into player A’s break area.
Game Play
In the situation where one player has an illegal break while the other scores points on break, the points will not be counted if the non-guilty player chooses to take the five point penalty and re-rack both ball sets.
In Cascade action balls ( balls which attempt to score the target cue ball ) are selected for each turn based on their order in rotation and by their proximity to the cue ball. The order of rotation is always yellow, blue, red, purple, orange, green, and brown, or whatever colors represent the number sequence of the balls. Colors sequences are easier to remember, since the nine and one, and two and ten, etc, always are played in color order, the closest yellow to the cue ball going first, and the next closest yellow going second, followed by the closest blue, the other blue, etc, etc, and starting again after both browns have gone.
After break play is done the cue ball is played from wherever it ends up after second break, and the yellow ball which is closest to the cue ball goes first to begin regular play. The two blues are then up for a turn, the first to go being the blue ball closest by proximity to the cue ball, followed by the other blue ball. If one of the blue balls is no longer on the table then only one blue ball will play the blue stage and both red balls will await the result of the single blue ball’s play. If neither blue ball is on the table the final yellow ball to take a turn will set up the red stage.
In order for each ball to stay legal during each of its turns, it must first make contact with the cue ball. If the cue ball is not contacted first during any play, the action ball which is up will be removed from the table after the result of its play.
In general there are four types of plays which are used in Cascade. A player may attempt to score the scoring cue ball directly ( off the next action ball up ); a player may attempt to hide the cue ball from the next opponent ball up; a player may play the cue ball to a place on the table beneficial for the next ball in order to shoot from; a player may also play a ‘sacrifice,’ which is a play intended to sink an opponent ball directly, ( opponent ball may not be returned to the table, but if the cue ball is not contacted first, the action ball will be lost in penalty ) in which case, if the action ball sinks the opponent ball it is a one for one tradeoff, the penalty removal ( action ball involved in the sacrifice ) occurring before the start of the next turn. Sacrifices also may move same side balls or opponent balls to good or poor positions on the table; but if the cue ball is not contacted first, however, such plays are considered sacrifices.
The idea of the game is to score as many points as possible in three rotations. A rotation is over when the brown balls, ( last balls in order ) have completed their plays, from which point the yellow balls begin again. After three rotations the balls are re-racked for the second round, etc, ect… Rounds may be played with any number of rotations, but three rotations seem to be the best overall game format, as many of the balls will be pocketed by the start of the fourth rotation. However many rotations are played per round both players should agree on the number of rotations beforehand.
Scoring Returns
Cascade scoring returns ( when returning cue ball to the table after a score ) are placed into a standard triangle rack placed so that the center dot of the table ( exact center of playing surface ) is visible within the rack, and the cue ball is also within the rack. This allows that the center of the cue ball cannot be placed more than one inside rack distance from the center dot. As long as the center dot is visible within the rack the rack itself may be placed in any direction and the cue ball may be at any place within the rack. If other balls are sitting very near the center dot they cannot be moved to get maximum distance for the cue ball, but must be accounted for by placing the triangle rack around them. There should always be some way to get the rack down on the table with the center dot within it, and without touching any of the balls with the triangle rack; but racks may vary in wall thickness, and if ever a rack does not fit anywhere between or over balls, the player with the problem must call for a center placement of the cue ball, ( exactly on the center dot ) allowing the balls obstructing the cue ball center placement to be placed anywhere within its home box area. However, it should be verified first that there is no possible way to lay the rack over or between balls first, and not just because a player would like a ball in hand.
Using a normal triangle makes it possible to play Cascade without drawing a center circle, and using a triangle rack in this way is often a considerable exercise when playing with a timer and a lot of balls are crowding the center dot.
The player that scores the cue ball returns it to this circle, which is called: ‘setting the table.’
When returning the cue ball to the table ( setting the table ) keep in mind that the next ball to be up will be the color of ball that is up, and also the closest ball of the two to the cue ball. For example, if the two green balls are up next, both of them about the same distance from the center dot, if the table setter wants his or her ball to go next, the cue ball must be closest to that ball after the table return. The cue ball may be placed and re-placed for measuring, looking at ball alignment, etc, but its outer edge must be no farther out than one inside rack distance ( about 12 inches ) from the center dot after the placement.
Scoring returns cannot be touching another ball after a scoring return even if that ball is in the return area. After break play, if another ball is close enough to the center dot to not allow the cue ball to be returned there, the ball or balls that are in the way are given ball in hand, the closest ball to the center being placed last.
If using a shot clock, the cueball should be in position when the clock expires. It is OK to have the rack on the table when the clock expires, so long as the cue ball is legally set, but the cue ball must deffinately be on the table when the clock expires. If not, or if the cue ball is illegally set, the opposing player will be awarded either the setting privaleges or they may take a one ball penalty ( any ball ) whichever they prefer.
General Penalties
Anytime a general penalty occurs the action ball which is up is simply removed from the table. ( unlike Matchbox and Counterpoint, both allowing any ball to be removed ) If multiple penalties occur in the same play, the action ball that is up is still the only ball penalized. If an opponent ball is pocketed through a penalized shot, ( not counting sacrifice plays* ) the ball that is pocketed is returned to the table any place that is not in contact with any other ball. Off the table balls are not returned to the penalized player, ( in the case of off the table penalty* ) but off the table balls belonging to the non guilty player may be freely placed back on the table anywhere so long as they are not touching another ball. In the case of double cues any balls that are moved may be placed back in their original position if possible, which does not include the penalized ball, which is removed from the table; or the non-guilty player may choose to take the resulting ball outcome after the penalized ball is removed.
When using a clock, violations should be assessed as general penalties, and the ball that is up for the shot is taken, the cue ball remaining in place. If other balls are disturbed they should be put back into their former position, or the non-guilty player may accept the outcome of the displaced arrangement if they prefer.
Game Format
A series of two rounds ( three rotations each ) should be played to allow each player a chance to break first and last. If the score is tied after two rounds, the final deciding round should carry on for three rotations also, and if still tied, four rotations, etc… Basically in the deciding round, after three rotations, the deciding round should continue until a winner emerges after all of the remaining balls complete each of the next rotations and the score is not tied. A coin flip or lag play, or whatever both players agree to should determine who breaks first and second. In such an overtime-type game the cue ball should be returned exactly to the center of the table after both break shots have been completed; the closest yellow ball then takes first turn, etc, etc, etc.
Game Strategy
In Cascade a good break design is essential. Normally it is advantageous to come out of the break with the green and brown balls blocking the home pockets and the yellow ball closer to the cue ball’s position after second break than the opposing yellow ball, which may allow for a quick score or chance to hide the cue ball from the opposing yellow ball. Often it is better to block the pockets with balls other than the green and brown balls, because if they are easily comboed or sacrificed there will be nothing left to score or defend with at the end of the final rotation.
Keep aware of the breaking styles that also work well in Counterpoint, as well as the 'Pocket and One' style, which is also somewhat common in Cascade, because losing any of the balls on break will create a gap in the rotation and complicate future sacrifice decisions, being already a ball short.
As normal play proceeds, try to sacrifice opponent balls that have more turns remaining, and not those which have already played the rotation. A good deal of consideration should be placed on setting up your next ball if there is not a good scoring shot available. The next ball in rotation can be set-up by positioning the cue ball from the ‘stalking’ position ( second ball to take a turn in a color group ) in a place that can be easily pocketed by your next ‘lead’ ball, which will hopefully be closer by proximity after the play to begin the next color stage. If shooting for a low value pocket, ( 1 point pocket ) note the position of your opponent’s next ball to take a turn. If it is in a good position to take a scoring shot it may be a good idea to not take the 1 point scoring shot and wait for a more reasonable set-up. When setting the table after a score make sure of the distances from each placement possibility to assure your ball is closer, or farther, from the cue ball, ( depending on whether or not you want your next ball to be a lead or stalking ball ) and confirm the distance with a tape measure or yard stick. Measuring tools are a must for cascade, so somebody present should have something to measure with to avoid any arguments that may otherwise interfere with game flow. When taking a sacrifice consider how the absence of the two balls ( if the sacrifice is successful ) will create gaps in your and your opponent’s rotation. Sacrifices are risky, but sometimes necessary if the cue ball is well hidden by your opponent.
Twin Cascade
For an interesting addition to Cascade, when two ball-sets are available, Twin Cascade can be played, each player controlling pairs of each of their colors up in the normal Cascade rotation. This means, of course, 29 balls will be present upon the table to begin play. All of the Cascade rules also follow exactly in Twin Cascade. The same one ball out requirement applies to breaks, all fourteen balls on each side fit as desired into each player's normal break area.
Since each color now has a partner ball, the normal three rotation game halves are lengthened to six rotations per half, bringing the total of game rotations to twelve.
In Twin Cascade it is important to remember, however, that only one of each opponent's balls of each color group may be played, and not both of them in a single rotation. If either of them has proximity position over both in the opponent's pair to begin a color stage, the person with a ball closer must cue either of their pair to complete their portion of the color stage before their opponent cues a single ball of their own pair. Penalties and sacrifice plays are ball specific, however, and the particular ball guilty of the penalty or sacrifice is taken. All other rules follow exactly as in normal Cascade.
Each shot in Twin Cascade takes some time to consider, and the amount of balls on the table may be overwhelming to some, especially so when played on a seven-foot table, so a quick shot clock is not recommended. Twin Cascade also takes at least twice as long to play as normal Cascade, requiring more time to be set aside for a good game to unfold. With practice and study, however, Twin Cascade produces interesting scenerios in endless variety, and certainly well worth the time invested.
Counter-Rotation
General
Counter-Rotation is a game similar to Nine Ball or Rotation, though there are several key differences as to how the balls are played and scored. In Counter-Rotation all fifteen balls plus the cue ball are used. The small numbered balls ( 1 -7 ) are set up for break on one end of the table, and the striped balls ( 9-15 ) are arranged on the other end of the table. This arrangement assures a wide distribution of the balls throughout the surface of the table after the break stages are completed. Counter-Rotation uses the same break area as Matchbox, Counterpoint, and Cascade, and follows the same one ball out rule when breaking.
Once the break stage is completed balls must be struck according to their color, ( 1&9; 2&10; 3&11; etc ) and there is no requirement to hit the 1 before the 9, for example, just as long as the color order is followed. Each color must be completed before moving on to the next color. If a ball is struck first before it is up in the rotation, it is a foul and the opposing player gets a ball in hand to begin their own turn. The 8 ball is the last ball to be pocketed, after both brown balls ( 7&15) have been pocketed.
Points are scored in Counter-Rotation, according to the number value on the ball which is pocketed - with two key requirements. First, balls which are pocketed for points must be called, ( ball and pocket ) and when pocketing a ball for a score a player must call the ball and pocket, and point to the pocket while calling the ball he or she would like to score. But after calling a pocket in any case the player who calls for a score must turn over the next shot to the opposing player. An example of calling a scoring shot would be “ 7 in the side pocket,” while pointing to the pocket. If the ball goes into that pocket the scoring player sets the 7 ball aside as one of his or her point scoring balls. The catch is, that none of the scored balls count toward the game score unless the player who scores them wins the game by legally sinking the eight ball ( the last ball after the brown balls, 7&15 ) in which case all the balls they have scored during the round are added and listed to their game score.
Obviously a number of rounds should be played ( two or more; ideally four or more )
Break Stage
During the break stage the player to break second arranges the little balls ( 1-7 ) in the break area opposite from where the first player to break will take his shot, ( from behind the normal head-string/foot-string line ) The first player to arrange the little balls ( 1-7 ) has the option of including the 8 ball on his or her side of the table, or sending the 8 ball over to the other side of the table for the first person to break to include in the striped 9-15 arrangement. Both ball sets must be within the break area. Strategic placement of the balls is a matter of choice, but when breaking the balls, one ball must end up all the way out of the break area to be legal. If not legal, a fifteen point deduction is applied to the guilty player’s total game score. If they have zero points they should be given a score of -15, and the balls will be re-racked for another break stage.
Whichever player pockets the most balls on break has the option of going first or second to begin regular play. Point values on the balls do not count to determine this, only the number of balls pocketed. In the case of a tie, the first player to break is the default player to go first to begin regular play. But if both players have pocketed an equal number of balls the first player to break must go first and has no option to go second. If either player scratches the cue ball while breaking their opponent will be given the option to go first or second to begin regular play regardless of how many balls are pocketed. If both players scratch on break, the first player to break must go first to begin regular play.
When breaking each player is given a chance to call one ball into a specific pocket. If the ball is pocketed in the appropriate pocket that player can add the amount on the ball to his or her possible points and set the ball aside in case they win the round later. However, these balls pocketed on break are counted no different than the others when counting who has pocketed the most balls on break.
Each break shot must travel over the mid point of the table before striking any ball while breaking. Otherwise the normal 15 point penalty will be deducted for illegal breaking action.
If the 8 ball goes in on break the round is over; but if neither player has scored any points beforehand, it is basically a draw that sends the game to the next round of play. Unless, of course, the 8 ball was called to a specific pocket beforehand, in which case that player’s score of +8 is added to their total game score and the balls will be rearranged for the next round of play. If a player scratches the cue ball during a break attempt and the other player does not, the player who scratches cannot claim a ball advantage for pocketing other balls or pocketing a called ball; but the other player who did not scratch is given the option to go first or second to begin regular play. If the scratch occurs on the second break, the player that did not scratch must take the opening shot from behind the normal head-string line, and cannot take a shot at a ball unless it is at least past the center point of the table on the opposite side of the table. Or the player may decide to award the option to the player which has scratched if they feel the shot options are not ideal.
Break shots must travel at least beyond the mid point of the table before making contact with any ball, otherwise an illegal break penalty will be assessed. Any ball may be contacted first, however, and if the second player to break has one of their assigned balls already out of their break area they may make first contact with any ball that is beyond the mid point of the table.
Shot Rules
All shots must go in rotational order, and if at any point contact is not made from the cue ball to the target ball which is of a color that is next in rotation, it is a foul, and a ball in hand for the other player when they begin their next turn. If initial contact is made with a ball that is not next in rotation and any ball is pocketed as a result, the value of the pocketed ball is subtracted from that player’s game score. Not to be confused with a tentative round score, ( called a ‘round total’ ) which only is added to the game score if the round is won. The above penalty subtracts from the official total game score. If the 8 ball is pocketed directly, or off an illegal ball not being of the proper rotation, the penalty is most severe. All game points will be lost, and all of their opponent’s ( non-guilty player’s ) round totals will be added to their own total game score, ( how ever many they have managed to score before the 8 ball penalty ) and the next round will then continue as normal. If the guilty player has negative points already, they will simply keep those negative points minus or ( -8 ) for the illegally pocketed 8 ball. Anytime this most severe penalty occurs the guilty player must at least receive an 8 point difference lower than the non-guilty opponent, assuming the non-guilty opponent has a negative total game score themselves, or have not yet pocketed any round points.
Scratches of the cue ball are ball in hand penalties, and whether a scored ball goes into a pocket before or after the cue ball scratches, the scored ball will not count and the result will be ball in hand for the opposing player.
When using a shot clock, violations are ball in hand penalties. If any balls are disturbed in the process, they may be repositioned or taken as are by the non-guilty player.
On the final ball, ( 8 ball ) the eight ball may go into any pocket if not called for a point score; but if called the 8 ball must go into the called pocket, or it is a round win for the opposite player, and all round points scored by the opposite player will be added to their total game score.
Combination shots are legal, so long as a proper ball that is up in rotation is struck first; and combination shots can be called so long as the pocket is called and contact with a legal ball is first made. But as always, any time a player calls a ball to be scored they may not go again. If the cue ball scratches on the final ball ( 8 ball ) the round win goes to the opposite player. Any combination off a legal ball that is up in rotation that leads to the 8 ball being pocketed will end the round, the pocket the 8 ball goes into does not need to be called.
Scratches on the final ball, ( 8 ball ) in which the 8 ball is pocketed, result in a round win for the player that did not scratch, and all round points scored will be added to their total game score.
*General Penalties
Any time a general penalty occurs, any points that are scored by the guilty player are not counted, and the non-guilty opponent receives ball in hand. Penalties involving the 8 ball result in the loss of the round.
When the eight ball is knocked in out of order and illegally, all points scored by the player to that point will be taken away and a new round will begin. In the same case, all tentative points scored by the non-guilty player during the round will be added to their total game score no differently than if they had won the round and cashed their tentative ‘round total’ points into game points. If the non-guilty player has a negative total game score the penalty will simply take the guilty player back down to that player’s level and game play will continue for another round or rounds as the case may be, with the guilty player assessed an additional 8 point negative score ( 8 lower than their opponent ) for the illegal pocketing of the 8 ball.
When other balls are knocked in illegally ( without hitting the ball that is up in rotation first ) the value of the ball will be subtracted from the guilty player’s total game score - not the tentative ‘round total.’
In Counter-Rotation it is necessary for either the cue ball or a ball being acted upon by the cue ball to make contact with either a rail or be pocketed. For example, if a player is shooting at a 3 ball and the cue ball makes contact with the 3, which contacts the 12, and the 12 then hit’s a rail and the 3 does not: it is a legal play. If the cue ball makes first makes contact with a rail and then hit’s the 3, which does not cause any ball to hit a rail: it is still a legal play. However, if the cue inches up to the 3, and none of the balls hit a rail: it is a penalty - ball in hand for opposing player. Game Strategy
When playing Counter-Rotation there is a tradeoff between keeping control of the game and scoring points to carry over to the next round. After all, the most points scored will win the game, but if rounds are not won there will be no points scored at all. An amateur player will undoubtedly tend to score higher totals from round to round, for example, if they were matched against a player with superior talent. However, they would of course not win as many rounds. This allows for a very interesting tradeoff, which I feel evens the playing field considerably. In most pocket billiard games the name of the game is to make shots, and leave yourself good position to make the shot to follow. In Counter-Rotation it is important to score balls with high point values and after doing so hide the cue ball so well that his or her opponent’s shots are limited if they would like to reestablish control of the table. In Counter-Rotation scoring points that also result in good safety plays are key; but it is also key to run out the table when it feels right to do so.
Ball Handicapping
Each of the above described billiard games is interesting in that, each of them can be handicapped for tournament purposes. For example, in Matchbox it is possible for a player playing with only one ball to win against a player utilizing all seven balls. Of course it is to a player's advantage to field seven balls against one, but by no means impossible for the player fielding the single ball to win outright. Any number of combinations ( fielded ball differences ) are applicable. The question will remain, "What is the ideal number to to field against an opponent playing seven, six, five, four, three, two, or one?" A difficult question to answer; although for most, they will want to enter a match with a full ball set.
A note about break play: In Matchbox matches where opponents field a different amount of balls, the same break rules apply. The player to receive the option to go first or second is the player to pocket the most opponent balls, and not the player with the most remaining. However, a player fielding three or less balls should be carefull not to be penalized during the break stage, as it will result in an outright loss of the round. ( Because of the three-ball penalty )
In Counterpoint the same handicapping feature is interesting. Five should always be an advantage over one. But in the hands of the right player, a single ball can potentially compete against an opponent fielding all seven. Of course a single ball will not be able to pass to itself, which will make things more difficult for such an ambitious player.
Although the standard use of five balls each in Counterpoint is the 'standard,' for non-handicapped games, it is most always better to field all seven if seven are available, than to field only five in 'non,' standard games.
Cascade is more sensitive to fielded ball differences. A player that plays only one of the seven available balls, expecting to win a Cascade match, will have very little chance. However, a player that plays five of the available seven, or is otherwise handicapped that way, will still have a fighting chance, even against a full set of seven.
Counter-Rotation is handicapped by color. There are eight colors available, the eight ball being the eighth. If a full handicap is allowed to call each of the colored balls, and a class A player is allowed to call only one color for potential round scoring, the odds may yet remain 50/50 depending on the skill level of each player. Obviously a professional with only one color available will still win out most often against a player just learning to play billiards, the color handicapping option, or even single ball handicapping, is still a fascinating possibility for Counter-Rotation.
In any situation, especially those which involve handicaps which are included in a tournament bracket format, it is important to have a steward with an accurate notebook, so that everyone knows what they will face in their upcoming brackets. A designated referee, to oversee play, inforce a shot clock, call penalties, and keep track of charged time extensions, may also offer a tournament participant a professional and exciting experience.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
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